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Indiana Game & Fish
Zoning In On Hoosier State Ducks & Geese
Here's a close-up look at several top places to seek late-season mallards, canvasbacks and Canada geese right now in our state. (December 2007)

Photo by Brian Strickland

When the going gets tough, the tough get going. That old maxim perfectly describes late-season mallards as well as the hardy waterfowlers who relish the extra challenge of seeking ducks in harsh weather conditions.

So, what's a "late-season mallard," anyway? Aren't mallard ducks simply mallard ducks? These green-headed drakes and noisy, drab hens are the largest of the wild dabbler ducks. Found from the east coast to the west, mallards are the most common of all North American waterfowl. Aren't those all definitions of mallards?

Head to any marsh in Indiana on the opening day of the season and you'll find some mallards in the mix of species available. They probably won't outnumber the wood ducks and teal in the sky. Perhaps a shoveler, a yet-to-spike pintail and some widgeons might join the fun. But there will be mallards -- early-season mallards -- with migration habits more like teal and woodies than their tough brethren, which stick it out in the northern staging areas until the going gets so tough they have to migrate, freeze to death or starve.


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These tail-end migrants are the "late-season mallards." The last remnants of an annual flight of 5 million birds that pour out of the prairie potholes and other northern areas where they breed to offer Hoosier waterfowlers a blessed last chance for a full limit of opportunity on lakes, rivers and reservoirs around the state.

It's no place for sissies. Expect below-freezing temperatures in the pre-dawn hours. Don't expect much relief after sunrise, either. When you are huddled in a duck blind after breaking skim ice for an hour to make a hole in front to load up with decoys, don't mention global warming to your hunting partners. That's not a proper topic. Don't mention being cold either, because there's no reason to feel the chill down to your bones if you've covered yourself with the proper attention and attire.

A friend of mine stationed in Alaska when he was in the Army told me they were taught to think "cold" to stay warm in temperatures of 40 to 60 below zero. That doesn't mean to just think about the cold, but think of the letters: C, O, L and D. It is an acronym reminding them of four aspects of dressing for extreme low temperatures.

C is for clean. Clean clothes are warmer. Dirt, oil and grime contaminate the fibers in cloth and lower its insulation effectiveness. Freshly laundered garments have more "loft" to them, as well. The fibers are springy, light and those minuscule air pockets are what make the cloth warm. Even if the clothes are not dirty, they may be compressed. Is your duck-hunting garb laundered regularly -- or is it stowed in the truck or trunk from one weekend to the next?

O is to remind people not to overdress. There's no surer way to get cold outdoors than to be overheated initially. Don't bundle up until you look like the Michelin Man, and for sure, don't bundle up at home and then hop into a heated car to travel to the boat ramp or check station to start your hunt. The body doesn't adapt well from going from its shedding heat mode to its conserving heat mode.

Ever had almost painfully cold feet and you were almost sweating while boating to your blind or sitting in the blind waiting for shooting time? That's a sign you were overdressed to begin with and your body's heat regulating mechanism is conflicted.

The key to comfort in frigid weather is the L. L stands for layers. Remove layers of clothing when you are traveling or active. Add layers when you stop or begin to feel the chill. Each layer adds another thickness of insulation and the air between each layer conserves heat, too.

The D in cold stands for dry. Nothing chills human skin more than moisture. Wet feet will do it, so wear waterproof footgear, even if you don't need waders or hip boots. Wet hands will do it, so avoid getting your gloves wet. Take dry gloves along and switch to rubber gloves or quality waterproof cloth gloves for handling decoys, wet ducks and dogs. Most important is to keep your inner garments dry from the normal sweat and moisture that comes through the skin.


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